Mozambique

We're in Vilancoulo, Mozambique! Right now we're both sitting at computers facing the ocean. The tide is pretty far out, and there is a big shrimping boat, some dhows, and what looks like Noah's Ark, tipped over in the sand. A nice breeze is coming through the window, and it's blowing the leaves of the palm tree just outside. I'll try to post a picture in case you can't believe we're actually in paradise. Unfortunately the internet here isn't especially fast (that's the only thing I could possibly change right now), so I don't know if it will work.

We had a wonderful week with Mom, Dad, Jon, Brooke, and Jed at Ponta Malongane. The resort where we stayed was just behind the dunes. It is an ideal set-up for divers, and has mostly camping accommodation. We stayed in the Tent Mansion--the "Loggerhead Tent." It was built for sea turtle researchers. The whole thing was set up on a deck with a kitchen and eating area on the main level. Half a level up had the "starlight" shower and toilet. Then upstairs again were two big canvas tent bedrooms and a deck overlooking the water. There were two other small cabins connected by walkways, and the whole thing had the feel of a giant tree house. We all loved it. We had easy access to the beach, and it was perfect for swimming, playing trackball, poker, Yahtzee, cribbage, water balloons, reading, campfires, and big family dinners. Michael and I also went SCUBA diving twice with my Dad, something I've been excited to do since my first dive six years ago.

The week went by pretty fast, and we still hadn't quite figured out how we were going to get north. It is only 120km to Maputo the capital of Mozambique from Ponta Malongane, but the roads...well, there are no roads. Lucky for us, the Rittgers decided they were up for an adventure. They decided to take the bumpy, unmarked sand trails to the Capital, and there was just enough room in the back of their truck for the two of us. Jed got us there in about five hours. We went to the market and had a really nice dinner in Maputo, and the next day we said goodbye.

Michael and I spent another night in the city, then we went to a small beach town called Tofo for a few nights. In Tofo we stayed in a reed chalet with the ocean right outside our front door. There was a little market in the center of town where we finally bought some paintings. We might still be in there now, if they had an ATM. But we ran out of money, so we had to move on.

We're using the local transport now, so moving on is an adventure. We had to take a boat to get to Maxixe, and we knew our options were motorized ferry or dhow. We decided a leisurely trip in a dhow sounded nice, so rather than walk down the ferry pier and step onto the boat, we had to walk through 100 yards of muck with countless tiny crabs by our feet, then wade through the water to climb into the boat. Oh, and Michael dropped our guidebook (read travel bible) in the water! So once we're on the boat, we're set, right? Pretty soon we get to cruising...get out of the way, and let the bailing begin! Next we hit a sandbar. The driver had to get out and push us across it. It actually was a really nice trip. The rest of the way to Vilancoulo was in a taxi. I don't have time now to give a full account, but let's just say at one point there were twenty four people and at least two chickens in a van made for fifteen.

It has only recently occurred to me just how amazing it is that Michael wanted to do this trip. I start to think, there is no way he could have imagined this is what it would be like. But he handles everything like it's just what he expected, and it is obvious that he is enjoying himself. It's been great to get your comments and emails. You can expect your postcards in the next couple of weeks. Our updated cell phone number is on the left, but it will change again when we get to Malawi sometime in the next week or so. We'll try to post again soon!