Krakow

So far, Krakow is my favorite city. Beautiful old buildings, churches, restaurants, and the largest square in Europe are crammed into the "Old Town," where we've spent most of our time. Of course it had to be crammed because it all had to fit inside the city wall, which was surrounded by the moat. The wall was torn down to allow easier access to the center, but rather than building modern buildings, they made a park that surrounds the city. Everything is really easy to walk to, and there are all kinds of performances every day.

While we were here we saw Fledermaus, our first operetta--that's an opera but with spoken dialogue. Before you guys start feeling sorry for Michael you should know that HE decided he'd rather go to the operetta than go see a hockey game! He's so cultured now! The singers were amazing. I can't understand how anyone can fill an entire theatre with their voices so effortlessly. At least they make it look effortless. This picture is of the curtain on the stage.

About 15km from Krakow we toured an incredible salt mine. That's right, I said salt mine. Certainly you don't hear about a salt mine and think, "Gee, that's something I've got to see!" Well you should if you're in Poland. Once upon a time, in about the year 1290, Princess Kinga (now Saint Kinga) threw her engagement ring into the ground in Hungary. When it turned up in Wieliczka, Poland it had miraculously brought salt deposits with it! The salt mine brought prosperity to the Polish people, and they decided to honor their Saint and many other famous people who visit the mine by carving their busts into the rock salt. The mine has been mined for 900 years. There are now over 2000 caverns, some have been made into chapels and there is even a cathedral with ornate sculptures carved into the walls, statues, and an altar made from the rock salt. It even has salt crystal chandeliers!

Last but not least, I'll talk about our trip to Auschwicz and Birkenau. It is really hard to know where to begin. The concentration camp became a museum shortly after WWII ended. In anticipation of the end of the War, the Germans managed to dismantle most of Birkenau, including its three gas chambers. But "luckily" at Auschwicz everything was left as it had been.

The creeping feeling of horror started to sink in as soon as we approached the front gate here. The words above the gate mean, "hard work will set you free." Obviously ironic, as most of the 25% of people who weren't sent to their deaths immediately on arrival here were worked to death. The prisoners lived in old prisoners barracks at Auschwicz, and in modified horse stables at Birkenau. The stables were designed to house 52 horses, but more than 400 people were forced to live in them at one time. Sometimes ten people to one bunk.Twice every day the prisoners had to line up for roll call. They stood in lines outside until every person was counted--sometimes for hours. Being at the camp in January gave me a new perspective on how miserable that could be. I found myself about to complain about how cold my toes were, and I was ashamed. People here were sometimes forced to stand in the snow barefoot or for a whole day as punishment.Countless people were executed in this courtyard. Part of the wall was reconstructed and is now a memorial.Estimates say that between one million and 1.8 million people were killed at Auschwicz camps. This is the only creamatorium that still stands.

When the camp was liberated there were warehouses filled with clothes, shoes, toothbrushes, eyeglasses, suitcases, etc. All of the items had been sorted and would eventually be sent back to Germany. The warehouses were referred to by the prisoners as "Canada"--the land of plenty.

I am glad we made this trip, but I'm still processing my reaction to it. For starters, I am happy to have been born in a diverse country where, for the most part, people get along. And I am proud that today we are sending a message to the whole world that we embrace our diversity--it is in fact one of our greatest strengths.